by Caroline M. Jackson
Once a powerful kingdom in Anglo-Saxon times,
Wessex in southwest England attracts visitors who want to walk in the
footsteps of English novelists Thomas Hardy and Jane Austen. Situated
southwest of London, this pocket of England encompasses the counties of
Somerset, Dorset, Wiltshire and the western part of Hampshire. It is an area
of gently rolling downs, peat moorlands and a magnificent 70-mile coastline.
The landscape is dotted with cathedral cities such as Winchester, Salisbury
and Wells interspersed with tiny villages like Puddletown, Tolpuddle and
Affpuddle.
Admirers of Jane Austen can begin their
journey with a visit to the writer's charming 17th century red-brick house
at Chawton where she penned Emma. Tarry in her bedroom and note the creaking
door which was purposely left unattended so that she could hide her
manuscript from view. The lovely gift shop has a marvellous collection of
her novels.
Continue west to the town of Lyndhurst. Known
as the "capital of the New Forest", it is an ideal touring centre
with cosy pubs and quaint shops. After a night's rest at a B&B, begin
your day with a visit to the modern New Forest Museum & Visitor Centre.
The area's history dates back to 1079 when William the Conqueror turned the
Forest into a Royal Hunting preserve. The colourful pictorial history is
beautifully illustrated in the amazing twenty-five foot long New Forest
embroidery. At the centre one can also learn more about Alice Liddell, the
little girl immortalised by Lewis Carroll in "Alice in
Wonderland". She is buried in Lyndhurst parish church.
The first surprising thing for the visitor to
this area is that less than half of the 145-square mile New Forest is
wooded. The term 'forest' originally included not only woodland, but open
heathland, pasture land and small villages. Some of the ancient ornamental
woodlands, mostly oak and beech, are magnificent.
My favourite pastime was to observe and
photograph the semi wild ponies of which there are nearly 3,000. One of the
best ways to enjoy the wildlife is to park your car and hire a bicycle, take
a wagon ride from Brockenhurst or walk through the countryside which is
mostly unfenced.
Just six miles southeast of Lyndhurst is the
charming riverside village of Beaulieu which is home to three visitor
attractions: the National Motor Museum which houses over 250 exhibits of
classic cars, buses and motorcycles; the Palace House, ancestral home of the
Montagu family. I chuckled when I noticed the dining room scales which
enabled diners to weigh in before and after meals! Lastly, the 13th century
Cistercian Abbey has fascinating exhibits of monastic life and an aromatic
herb garden. Should you get a little footsore while traipsing around the
site, hop aboard the monorail or the open top bus. The circular journeys are
included in the entrance price.
Just two miles down river from Beaulieu is
the historic village of Buckler's Hard where ships for Nelson's fleet were
built between 1743 and 1818. Visitors can walk through the 18th-century
hamlet of brick cottages where displays re-create 18th century village life.
Jane Austen and her family used to take boat trips along this river and up
to the New Forest. Today you can take a lazy walk along the river bank or a
scenic boat trip aboard the Swiftsure.
For a complete change of pace, take an
18-mile drive south west to the Victorian seaside resort of Bournemouth. No
longer do people flock here to recover from "consumption" but many
seniors retire here to enjoy the sea breezes and delightful holiday
atmosphere. This town lives up to its picture postcards with seven miles of
lovely clean sands and a long pier complete with funfair. Hotel breakfasts
over, lines of deck chairs and windbreakers begin to dot the beach and on
the promenade tickets are sold for bathing boxes. The latter rent for $12 a
day and include deck chairs and a little stove. The greatest entertainment
is people watching and I was surprised to see some topless sunbathers. I
asked a security guard if this was normal: "Oh" he chuckled,
"They'll be over from the Continent and we just turn a blind eye unless
they take off the bottom half...."
Overlooking the waterfront, regal Victorian
hotels are stacked like colourful dominoes along the cliffs which are
punctuated by steep fissures called "Chines". Our magnificent
hotel, The Chine Hotel nestled next to one of these steep valleys and in the
evening we followed one of the lovely zigzag walks overlooking the ocean.
Thomas Hardy described Bournemouth as: "A city of detached mansions; a
Mediterranean lounging-place on the English Channel".
Venture further along the coast to the Isle
of Purbeck to see round medieval Corfe Castle, one of the most dramatic
ruined castles in England. Its position commands a panoramic view of the
surrounding countryside. A National Trust property, the castle has a lovely
garden tearoom where you would expect Miss Marpole to feel at home. Don't
miss the adjacent village of Corfe, a treasure house of historic pubs and
tiny shops. Sadly, the traffic thunders through here at speed.
Ramblers and photographers can continue west
and follow the 70-mile coastal path to beautiful Lulworth Cove. Once the
haunt of smugglers, the picturesque bay is almost land-locked. Crunch over
the pebbles or take a stroll along the coastal path but not too close to the
edge....
On your homeward bound journey to London,
visit one of the cathedral towns with their cloisters, Chapter Houses and
tombs. My favourite was Salisbury and I will leave Thomas Hardy to close
with his description: "Upon the whole the Close of Salisbury, under the
full summer moon on a windless midnight, is as beautiful a scene as any I
know in England - or for the matter of elsewhere".
LITERARY FIGURES
Jane Austen (1775-1817) - English novelist, her work recently revived in the
films Emma and Sense & Sensibility and the TV version of Pride and
Prejudice. She is buried in the north aisle of Winchester Cathedral. In life
her novels were anonymous and the inscription on her tomb does not mention
her talents, but her character: "She openeth her mouth with wisdom and
her tongue is the law of kindness."
Thomas Hardy (1840-1928) English poet and novelist whose books included: Far
from the Madding Crowd, The Return of the Native and The Mayor of
Casterbridge. The heart of "Hardy Country" is Dorchester which he
penned "Casterbridge".
Edward Rutherford's recent novel Sarum was written around Salisbury.
Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-1894) Scottish writer wrote The Strange Case of
Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde and Kidnapped while living in Bournemouth.
CATHEDRALS & ABBEYS
Salisbury Cathedral - 83 mls. sw of London. Its 400-foot spire is the
tallest in Britain and is the subject of several paintings by Constable.
Winchester Cathedral - 64 mls. sw of London - Europe's longest church. Visit
the Close, Pilgrim's Hall and the Refectory for tea. Crypt and Tower tours
available.
Shaftesbury Abbey - interesting and in a lovely location.
Milton Abbey near Milton Abbas, a picturesque village of identical thatched
cottages. The Abbey was once part of a Benedictine monastery and the
pastoral setting is balm to the soul.
Travel tips:
By car from Heathrow Airport, follow the M3 to Winchester, then the M27 to
Lyndhurst in the New Forest (a 90-minute drive).
Parking in centre of cathedral towns at a premium. Check with tourist
authority for park and ride options.
For further information contact the British Tourist Authority, Suite 450,
111 Avenue Road, Toronto, Ontario M5R 3J
