British
Columbia’s Manning Provincial Park
By Caroline M. Jackson
Imagine falling into a frigid
lake and finding yourself floundering in warm water. That is reputedly what
happened to a prospector in 1859 when he fell out his canoe in Harrison Lake.
This accident subsequently led to the discovery of its now famous hot springs.
Two springs bubble out from the foot of the mountains each with a different
chemical content and up to temperatures of 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Even a
lobster would not want to be cooked at this heat, so the sulfurous mineral
waters for the Harrison Hotel pools and the Public Pool have to be cooled
before patrons can bathe.
Built at the south end of 77
kilometer-long Harrison Lake, the Village is compact and many motels and
restaurants stand shoulder to shoulder along the picturesque sandy lakeshore.
The granddaddy of all accommodations is the Harrison Hot Springs Resort &
Spa which sits on 45 acres of ground by the lake. Even though we were
not staying the resort, we partook of the hotel’s sumptuous buffet breakfast
which is served in the Lakeside Café. After our repast, we browsed in the
summer craft market, which was set up in tents along the waterfront. The
younger set in our family party opted for wet rides in the bumper boats while
the more mature members enjoyed a walk around the sandy lagoon which is a
popular spot for Canada Geese.
Our final destination was
Manning Park Resort, which is nestled in the heart of the Cascade Mountains at
1200 meters above sea level. Equidistant from Hope and Princeton, families
traveling along Highway 3 often stop here for a break and refreshment in the
Pinewoods Lodge. Our plan, however, was to stay for a couple nights in one of
the well-equipped cabins which sit in a semi circle, well back from the road.
As soon as we parked, our dog tugged at her leash in a vain effort to follow
some of the cheeky marmots into their myriad tunnels in the adjacent parkland.
Soon under a clear, star-studded sky, we had a barbecue underway in one of the
designated areas keeping in mind that we were after all, in a heavily treed
Provincial Park.
The next morning, we
crossed the highway and drove eight kilometers up the mountain opposite us to
Cascade Look Out which speaks for itself. Another 15 kilometers uphill took us
to the largest publicly accessible sub-alpine meadows in Canada. Just as we
were adjusting our walking boots, a sudden squall of snow-laden wind blanketed
out the parking lot. It took us by surprise, as it was early August. However,
the snowy whirlwind soon vanished revealing a warm sun. Carrying
everything but the kitchen sink, we set off along a level path, which
stretched the 21-kilometer length of the pristine meadows. The
scenery was breathtaking with red Indian paintbrush growing next to yellow
glacial lilies. In one valley we stood spellbound as we watched a herd of mule
deer quietly grazing on lush grass. As I looked over the distant U.S. mountain
range, it was mind boggling to think that hikers can trek along the
transcontinental Pacific Crest Trail from Manning Park to Mexico in six months.
For the less ambitious, the Park boasts nearly 300 km of hiking
trails with a handful being accessible to mountain bikers. In winter, many of
these trails are used by cross-country and Nordic skiers.
Back down on the valley
floor, we spent the rest of the day hiking along the Strawberry Flats and the
Lightening Lake Chain with a wrap-up visit to the Visitor Center which lies
one kilometer east of the Lodge.
We took the Trans Canada
from Vancouver to Harrison and returned to Vancouver via the scenic
“Sasquatch Drive” (Highway 7) along the north side of the Fraser. This
latter route gave us an opportunity to visit the Kilby Historic Store and Farm
which depicts life as it was in the Fraser Valley during the 1920’s.
Situated at Harrison Mills near the Harrison River, the farm was often
subjected to floods, so all the boardwalks are raised above ground level.
Walking into the General Store was akin to entering a time capsule. During our
visit, several seniors were ahead of us and snippets of conversation began
with “Do you remember my mother had one of these?” The pharmacy
shelves groan under bottles of Andrews Liver Salts and Belladonna plasters.
Beneath the glass case in an era when there was time for games instead of TV,
there are boxes of Tidley Winks and Parcheesi. The haberdashery boasts lace
handkerchiefs and wooden darning mushrooms. For ladies there was tan Velva Leg
film for a time in the 1940’s when silk stockings were as scarce as hen’s
teeth.
After browsing in the store
we visited the old Post Office and the Manchester House Hotel which dates back
to 1908. Before returning to ‘civilization’, we treated ourselves to
a bowl of soup and a scone in the Tearoom. Service was a little slow, but we
had to remember we were after all in another time warp.
World
Champion Sand Sculpture Competition at Harrison takes place in early
September.
Tourism
B.C.: http://hellobc.com
Manning
Part Resort: http://manningparkresort.com
Kilby
Historic Store & Farm http://www.kilby.ca
Harrison
Hot Springs Resort & Spa: http://www.harrisonresort.com
Manning
Provincial Park is 175 km east of Vancouver – approximately a 3hr. drive.
