The Swabian Sea – a
Veritable Treasure Box
By Caroline M. Jackson
After
exploring the highs and the lows of the Swiss Alps by gondola, cog-railway,
funicular and a pied, I decided to give my creaky knees a rest and head
north for more level terrain. While studying my map, I spotted a cerulean
sea tucked into the northeast corner of Switzerland, a place where zigzag
rail lines were replaced with gentle curves and four-digit elevations were
non existent. As our train headed northeast, we chugged through
rolling open countryside dotted with cows, goats and pink pigs. As we neared
the lake, I knew I had hit the jackpot - there wasn’t even a molehill in
sight. The Rhine glacier had obligingly gone before me and flattened nearly
everything except for some long gentle lakeside hills clothed in vineyards
and orchards. This was the perfect recreational area for walking, cycling
and boating.
Soon I had my
first glimpse of Lake Constance, Europe’s third largest lake after Lake
Geneva and Lake Balaton. Over the centuries, it has been known by many
names; the Romans called it the “Golden Bowl” while the Alemannians
named it the “Swabian Sea”. The area has a fascinating history and today
Lake Constance (German: Bodensee) is shared by three countries. Germany has
174 km of the northern shoreline, Austria to the east has 28 km, while the
Swiss section to the south has 72 km.
Our base for
three days was the town of Constance which is situated on a peninsula
between two watery inlets, the Uberlinger See and the Unter See. Upon
arrival we had to decide whether to stay in the Swiss part of town, known as
Kreuzlingen or in the official German part which is Constance proper. Caught
in a conundrum, we opted to spend a few nights in a Pension adjacent to the
Swiss/German border which divides the train station. Passing back and forth
between the two countries was no problem as long as the officials had a
glimpse of our passports.
On our
first morning, we purchased a combination boat/garden entry ticket from our
Pension and took one of the white ferries over to the Island of Mainau in
Germany.
Once a summer
residence, this exotic 45-hectare tropical paradise is a feast for the
senses. Views from the terraces of the Italian rose garden are breathtaking
and the Baroque Castle and Church with its adjacent Palms House are
picture-postcard perfect. A highlight for me was the Butterfly house
with its plethora of delicate winged insects which could be seen at close
quarters.
To round off
our day, we took a 20-minute ferry crossing to the picturesque town of
Meersburg situated on the north shore of Lake Constance. This was
certainly my idea of a perfect medieval village complete with an intact
11thC castle. Those with creaky knees can amble along the lakeside promenade
and enjoy a cool drink in one of the many cafes beside the town gate. The
Upper Town, however, is well worth the climb with its half-timbered houses,
the Bible gallery and town square.
The following
day, feeling that that we now had a sense of the area, we used our trusty
Swiss Rail Pass for a one-hour train journey to Schaffhausen which is also
accessible from Constance by boat along the Rhine. Our main purpose was to
visit the spectacular Rhine Falls, the largest waterfall in Europe which
crashes down a 23m drop. Nothing could have prepared me for the excitement
of seeing and hearing the power of these roiling, turbulent waters from the
viewpoint at Schloss Laufen. Visitors with a strong faith can take one of
the little flat-bottomed boats right out to the falls and be dropped off at
one of the steep rocky islets. My adventurous spirit won over my fear so my
memory is etched with the drama of perching atop the rock beside the Swiss
flag while surrounded by the earsplitting surging waters.
On our return
train journey, we stopped at the medieval town of Stein am Rhein.
History speaks
for itself in the attractive facades, 16th C. frescoes, oriel windows, gate
towers and fountains – just the scene you would expect to find on jigsaw
puzzle boxes. Photo aficionados will not be disappointed.
Nearing the
end of our sojourn, we spent our last morning walking in the lovely bucolic
countryside around Appenzell which lies an hour southwest of Constance. The
icing on the cake was a visit to the medieval town of St. Gallen which is a
UNESCO world heritage site. Renown for its late Baroque Benedictine Abbey,
the library is world famous for its rare manuscripts from the Middle Ages.
Visitors are welcome and we were given special soft slippers so that we
would not damage the exquisite inlaid floor.
Although
Zurich Airport was only an hour away by train from our base in Constance, I
felt I had truly stumbled upon a cultural treasure trove which is not
frequented by many North Americans. Like all treasure hunters, I shall be
back for some more.
Travel tips:
Bikers:
a 270 km bike track surrounds Lake Constance.
Boaters:
Favorite half-day ferry trips include Constance to Bregenz (Austria) and
Konstanz to Stein am Rhein.
Gardening
enthusiasts should visit Mainau outside of peak season as it is very popular
with German visitors. www.mainau.de
Switzerland
Tourism: www.MySwitzerland.com
German
Tourism: www.cometogermany.com
Rail Europe: www.raileurope.com
Swiss Rail: www.rail.ch
British
Airways flies London/Zurich www.britishairways.com
Images by
Hamish M. Jackson
