by Caroline Jackson
The Hawaiian island of Kauai was birthed by
the eruption of a single volcano which now rises more than 5,000 feet above
the Pacific Ocean. Fed by moisture-laden Trade Winds, the volcano's eastern
rim is reputed to be the wettest place on earth. Its flanks swathed with
lush vegetation are reminiscent of an era when dinosaurs once roamed the
earth. Steven Spielberg must have made the same observation when he chose to
film footage for "Jurassic Park" at spectacular Manawaiopuna Falls
and mist-enshrouded Mount Waialeale. Ever since Hollywood discovered the
natural beauty of the island, over 50 major productions have been shot on
Kauai. One of the 1950's musicals, "South Pacific" featured Mitzi
Gaynor who sang "I'm gonna wash that man right outta my hair" on
the shores of Lumahai Beach. The backdrop, Mount Makana was transformed into
the mysterious Bali Hai. Ricky Nelson and Jack Lemmon sailed "The
Wackiest Ship in the Army" up the Wailua River. The lush rainforests
can be seen in Steven Spielberg's and George Lucas' "Raiders of the
Lost Ark" and "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom". Jessica
Lang, Jeff Bridges and Charles Grondin hunted "King Kong" in the
lush Kalalau Valley. Elvis Presley got married near the Wailua River in
"Blue Hawaii". The island's lush vegetation was disguised as a war
zone in "Uncommon Valor". Several TV mini-series also took
advantage of the natural backdrop, one of the most memorable being "The
Thorn Birds" starring Richard Chamberlain.
However, you don't need to be a movie buff to
enjoy this the oldest and northernmost of the Hawaiian main islands.
Honeymooners come here to enjoy walking on deserted beaches; outdoor
enthusiasts come to hike or bike along the verdant valleys or navigate the
rivers; others come here to enjoy the tranquillity and 'veg out' before
returning to a faster paced life on the mainland. So far, Kauai has escaped
crass commercialism and this might in part be due to a devastating event
which occurred in recent history. On 11th September 1992, Hurricane Iniki
targeted Kauai rooting up thousands of trees with gusts of up to 165 mph
ripping off the roofs and walls of buildings. Miraculously, only two people
were killed. However, the bill for the damage made it the third most
expensive disaster in U.S. history. At first glance, there is little
evidence of the devastation today, but poke around in some of the old towns
and you will find many old buildings which are mere empty shells. Many home
videos were made at the height of the hurricane and you can get a glimpse of
life as experienced by the islanders and visitors alike on that fateful day
if you visit the Kokee Museum and watch their excellent video. At the height
of Hurricane Iniki, movie maker Steven Spielberg was staying in the Westin.
From his hotel window, he filmed 30' waves smashing against the breakwater
in Kalapaki Bay. He later used the film clips for the movie "Jurassic
Park".
To experience Hawaii as it once was, drive to
the quiet town of Hanalei on the north coast. En route, take your time and
stop at the various view points especially the Hanalei Lookout which gives
visitors an unimpeded view over the patchwork taro fields below. In town,
stop for a snack in Ching Young Village then wander along the road to visit
Waioli Huiia Church, the home of Hanalei's first missionaries. The lovely
setting on an expansive manicured lawn is balm to the soul. For a little
adventure, pop into the Blue Lagoon Kayak company. Here you can rent a kayak
on your own or take a guided kayak tour along the quiet Hanalei River and
out into the ocean for some surf kayaking. Make sure you only bring
waterproof equipment along for the ride. My tape recorder has had a
permanent case of laryngitis since its unexpected dunk in the ocean...
