by Caroline M. Jackson
Switzerland - birthplace of mighty snowcapped
mountains such as the Eiger and the Jungfrau; home of picturesque chalets
set in pristine Alpine meadows; a country where everything runs with the
precision of a Swiss watch.
Everyone has a dream and mine was to return
to Switzerland where I had spent time in my youth. I was not disappointed.
It is an expensive place to visit, but this can be offset with a little
pre-planning. When we booked our flight to London, we purchased a British
Airways Air Pass which allowed us to make a three-pronged hop over to Europe
and back. We also bought a Swiss Rail Pass which enabled us to travel on the
trains, lake steamers, Post buses and at a reduced rate on the mountain
gondolas. For accommodation, we stayed in an old farmhouse which is used as
a retreat center during the summer months. Other travelers we met on the
highways and byways either stayed in hotels booked through package deals or
they selected accommodation from Switzerland Tourism's booklet which lists
properties ranging from small hotels and guest-houses to dormitories and
mountain lodges.
The best way to explore this country is to
make use of the excellent Swiss rail system which traverses the country like
an intricate spider web. Upon arrival at Zurich airport, follow the signs
downstairs to the information office to validate your rail pass. When I
enquired about reaching our destination in the southern Alps, the railway
official punched a button in his computer and seconds later presented me
with a personalized itinerary listing platform numbers and departure times.
Swiss efficiency is tops, but if you have trouble pronouncing the name of
your destination, write it down as the Swiss like precision with many of
them being fluent in three or more languages. Especially if you are
traveling through the scenic Alps, study a map ahead of time or ask someone
for advice concerning the best side of the railway carriage for a view. On
some trains such as an intercity express or the scenic Glacier Express,
there is a surcharge and it is advisable to book a seat in advance. In most
stations, train arrivals are announced in German, French, Italian and
English. On arrival, set your watch according to the train station clock.
Always allow yourself a few extra minutes especially if you have to change
platforms at busy centers such as Basel or Zurich. They say cleanliness is
next to godliness and the platforms I frequented were so clean that I could
almost have eaten a cheese fondue from their surface. Be on the alert when
your train comes in so that you can choose first or second class, smoking or
non-smoking carriages. On my initial journey, I mistakenly chose a smoking
carriage but was able to relocate two tunnels later.
Should you prefer the convenience of a car -
perhaps you are traveling in a group or you are visiting several European
countries - the roads are in excellent shape and are well signposted.
Driving is on the right hand side and while it is a great way to visit the
countryside, it is not the best choice for city sightseeing as parking is at
a premium in many town centers which are now pedestrian precincts.
Our base was located in the Bernese Oberland
half way between the towns of Thun and Interlaken. On our first morning
after surfacing from under the warm feather-filled comforter, I opened the
shutters to the sound of tinkling cowbells and the perfunctory 'toot' from
the train as it entered the lakeside tunnel below.
One glance towards the ice-blue and white
tapestry of the Alps and I couldn't wait to ascend my first mountain. With
our rail passes tucked into our pockets, we headed to the nearest town of
Spiez where we replenished our day packs with sandwiches and mini bars of
Toblerone. I wanted to find a mountain that was easily accessible but not
overrun with tourists. A local hiker pointed us in the direction of a
majestic peak known as Stockhorn Mountain (2190 meters). We therefore headed
for Erlenbach, a picturesque riverside village with deep-eaved chalets and
window boxes awash with cascading scarlet geraniums.
At the gondola base, we joined many bronzed
seniors and a contingent of young men toting huge nylons bags. When the
cable car reaches the highest station, I took a seat on the wooden
wrap-around balcony. Just below, I could identify the contents of the
mysterious nylon bags - hang gliders which were now being assembled to
create colorful butterflies. I watched with fascination as each glider ran
to the edge of the precipice to soar like an eagle into the hazy blue
Simmental valley below.
Once we had adjusted to the heady change in
altitute, we took a short hike up to the summit past delicate Alpine flowers
which quivered in the breeze. At the ridge I gingerly looked south towards
Mt. Blanc and the Matterhorn and felt the same refreshing thermals which
carried the hang gliders. Through my binoculars, I watched many intrepid
hikers of all ages setting out to enjoy the 70 km of well marked mountain
trails which meandered between roaming goatherds. Experiencing the intensity
of the sun at this higher elevation, we took the aerial tram down to the
mid-station to enjoy a picnic on the shores of the Stockensee, a pristine
glacial lake which is stocked with fish. Despite the heat, a dip in the
water here is a toe-numbing experience. Wherever you go in Switzerland,
there is always a bench in the right spot and this lake shore was no
exception.
Having investigated the mountain tops, the
next day we decided to explore the interior of a mountain. From Interlaken
our steamer zigzagged across the lake calling in at tiny villages and
passing fairytale castles. At the holiday resort of Merligen, a senior hiker
assured us it was a short walk up to a fascinating labyrinth of caves once
inhabited by an Irish monk. I learned a valuable lesson half an hour and a
bottle of water later. Any time a Swiss tells you a walk will take ten
minutes, you can probably double the estimated time especially as many
'walks' are uphill hikes. The Swiss seem to be an incredibly fit lot with
many octogenarians hiking, be it with the aid of a stout walking stick.
When we reached the St. Beatus Caves, we
welcomed the cool underground temperature which remains at a constant nine
degrees centigrade. An elderly Swiss guide decked out in a smart uniform met
us at the entrance explaining that photographs were 'verboten'. I initially
thought this restriction was to preserve the delicate limestone formations
from the effects of flash, but later decided it was probably so that no-one
slowed up his regimented one-kilometer long march through the caves. Having
hurriedly retrieved warm jackets from our day packs, our tour took us past
impressive stalagmite and stalactite formations and alongside gushing
underground streams that echoed in the deep caverns. The shallow mirror lake
was particularly spectacular as the light reflection gave it the appearance
of being a deep underwater grotto. En route, our guide stooped every so
often to pick up litter dropped by previous visitors. I'm sure they weren't
Swiss...
For the remainder of the day, we returned to
the lake front and continued our boat trip to the medieval town of Thun. The
outdoor cafes in the cobbled Rathaus Platz (town square) looked inviting.
Instead, however, we visited Migros, a popular Swiss supermarket to buy
open-faced sandwiches and headed for the banks of the Aare River where we
watched swans glide past our dangling sandalled feet. Refreshed, we headed
up the covered staircase to 12th century Schloss Thun (Zahringen Castle) and
afterwards wandered through the medieval two tiered-shopping street.
From the Bernese Oberland, it is easy to take
a day trip into Italy. Early one morning we caught the Milan train but were
surprised to find our compartment was dirty, smelled of cigarettes and had
no light bulbs. After chatting to fellow travellers, we discovered to our
chagrin that we had chosen an Italian instead of a Swiss carriage. The
journey was spectacular and we knew we had crossed into Italy when a young
Italian rushed along the corridor enthusiastically shouting GELATO! GELATO!
Hot on his heels were the Italian police. Dressed in blue-gray uniforms,
hats cocked back from their sweaty foreheads, they ambled past our
compartment encumbered by jingling handcuffs, guns and walkie talkies. If
the Italian jails looked anything like their washrooms, I made sure my
passport and tickets were in perfect order. Soon, we reached our
destination, the beautiful Italian town of Stresa which is situated on Lake
Maggiore. It was siesta time, so we enjoyed a stroll along the sunsplashed
promenade with only the diving swifts for company. Once the haunt of the
European aristocracy, magnificent villas overlook the lake which is dotted
with the Borromean archipelago of islands. This scenic spot would be a haven
for photographers and artists alike.
On the final day of our Swiss sojourn, we
decided to explore the Grindelwald and Gimmelwald valleys which lie just
south of the Victorian resort town of Interlaken. The drive took us along
the shores of Lake Thun, then across a covered wooden bridge which straddled
a fast flowing glacial green river popular with rafters. Within half an
hour, we reached the ski village of Grindelwald which abounded with
visitors, boutiques and bistros. Abandoning the crowds, we followed a ribbon
of paths which meandered through meadows and past gingerbread-shaped
chalets. The fields were a tapestry of Alpine flowers alive with honey bees
and butterflies. The perfume from the purple clover and the sweet grasses
was balm to the soul. This was the Switzerland I had dreamed about - a
country where time has stood still despite the proverbial ticking of the
Swiss watch.
Travel tips:
Eating out: the main meal is at noon and many department stores, Migros and
Coop outlets have inexpensive self-service restaurants. Best value is
usually found by choosing the fixed-menu advertised on a board outside the
restaurant.
Gifts to bring home: embroidered handkerchiefs; Swiss army knives; music
boxes and cowbells.
Events: June - International Barrel Organ Festival in Thun.
July - yodeling festival at Grindelwald
Rail Europe Reservation no: 1-800-361-7245.
Switzerland Tourism, 222 No. Sepulveda Blvd., Suite 1570, El Segundo, CA
90245-4300, California. Tel. 310-640-8900; Booklets: "Swiss Budget
Hotels & Restaurants" and "Season for Seniors".
For information about a British Airways' Airpass phone 1-800-AIR-WAYS or
contact your travel agent . Air Canada flies from Vancouver to Zurich twice
a week till 26th September. Tel. 688-5515
