Ticino -
Switzerland’s Sunny Balcony
By Caroline M. Jackson
Mention the towns of Ascona,
Bellinzona, Locarno or Lugano and many people will naturally presume you are
talking about Italy. In fact all of these places are part of Ticino
(pronounced Ticheeno), a southern Swiss canton which encompasses the northern
shores of Lake Maggiore, and Lake Lugano. Snuggled between curvaceous hills,
the climate is balmy. Palm trees line the lakefronts while pink camellias,
lemon mimosas and purple bougainvillea spill from hillside loggias.
To reach this idyllic part of
Switzerland, we took a three-hour train journey south from Zurich through
breathtaking Alpine scenery. At one point the train looped through so many
tunnels that we saw the same onion-domed church from three different levels.
We knew we had entered the Ticino region when the medieval fortified castles
of Bellinzona loomed on both sides of the train. These fortifications built by
the Dukes of Milan who ruled northern Italy have stood sentinel over the
entrance to the Saint Gotthard and San Bernardino passes for many centuries.
Once Italian, the area became Swiss in 1512 and today Bellinzona is the
regional capital.
Arriving in busy Lugano
station was at first a little disconcerting as most people spoke Italian (8%
of the Swiss are Italian-speaking). However, the Ticinese are friendly and
after many gesticulations we were directed to our hotel which we had located
through the Internet.
Using
our Swiss Pass, we took the funicular railway down a steep incline to the busy
pedestrian-only old town. By now it was lunchtime. The Mediterranean sun was
intense and the cobblestone streets made it difficult for us to rattle along
with our small-wheeled suitcases. However, there’s always an angel in every
city and a charming businessman in a pinstriped suit spoke perfect English and
directed us to the modest Hotel Zurigo. After a quick shower in our tiny
abode, we walked through the piazzas towards the turquoise waters of Lake
Lugano. A wide promenade skirts the lakefront and the bay is shouldered by two
wooded mountains: Mount San Salvatore (900 m.) and Mount Bre (933 m). Both
were no doubt instrumental in giving Lugano the nickname of Rio of the Old
World. A refreshing breeze blows off the lake causing fountains to spray water
over bystanders. There are pedestrian crossings but remember this ribbon of
road is popular with the young set who want to show off their latest set of
wheels – an Alfa Romeo, Ferrari or Lamborghini. Others drive Vespas at the
speed and noise of angry hornets. To absorb the atmosphere, we bought a Gelato
from a vendor and sauntered along to the waterfront Parco Civico (Town Park).
Lake cruises were leaving from the Imbarcadero Centrale so, again flashing our
trusty Swiss Pass, we boarded a boat for the picturesque historic village of
Gandria. Once a fishing village, this sleepy little town is an artist’s
paradise. Stepped passageways and cobblestone alleys wend between
ochre-colored houses and lead up to a little Baroque church. Green shutters
keep out the sun while passion flowers and wisteria cascade from
mold-encrusted terra cotta pots.
Our next port of call was the
150-year old “Smuggler’s Museum” which if you lean too far back, puts
you in Italy. Located in a former Swiss Customs Post complete with
living quarters, the museum explains the role, past and present, of the
beret-wearing frontier police and the perilous role they played during WWII.
The Museum’s romantic history of clandestine trade is exhibited on several
floors. At the entrance a car is riddled with hiding places for drugs,
weapons, gold, forged passports and credit cards. A video shows police
locating contraband by using a surgical endoscope.
Our last lakeside call was a
visit to Swissminiatur at Melide. This is a great place for the young at heart
– a detailed model of the architectural highlights of Switzerland built in
stone to a scale of 1:25. Highlights include Chateau Chillon, Bern’s
Parliament buildings and the medieval town of Murten all linked by perfectly
synchronized trains, boats and cable cars. This is an ideal place to ponder on
familiar sites and plan for new destinations.
On our return to Lugano, the
lively piazzas were awash with diners who were eating alfresco under colorful
umbrellas. Afterwards, we meandered along the narrow arcaded streets before
joining a public open-air concert under the stars.
Travel tips:
Switzerland Tourism: http://www.MySwitzerland.com
Lugano Tourism: http://www.lugano-tourism.ch
Swiss Travel System: http://www.rail.ch
Images by Hamish M. Jackson
